Upper Dharamshala, Home of the Dalai Lama

McLeodganj

Buddhism began in the foothills of the Himalayas in India with Siddhartha Guatama who is believed to be a reincarnation of the Hindu God Vishnu. Even though Buddhism is virtually non-existent in India today, it is home to many Tibetan Buddhist refugees including His Holiness the Dalai Lama in a small hill station named McLeodganj.

McLeodganj, named after a British lieutenant governor of Punjab, or “little Tibet”, is 250 km from Chandigarh in the foothills of the Himalaya. After an 8-hour bus journey through the night, we arrive to cold and rainy Dharamshala.

The city is tiny and filled with novelty stores, temples, and tourists amongst an awe-inspiring landscape. If I hadn’t been to Nepal prior, I would have been more impressed. Now that I am back in the mountains, I want more. Next stop is to Gangotri, via Rishikesh, to see where the mighty Ganga originates.

License to Wed

Chandigarh Rock Garden

So I am back at Alok and Neegam’s place in Chandigarh. They are both still at work and Didi (or sister in Hindi) arrived and has already washed the dishes and prepared dinner. Cub left to meet a potential wife. His father is trying to get him married and has even joined a matrimonial site (check www.shaadi.com). It’s like online dating but worse. Cub has expressed no interest in an arranged marriage but entertains the suggestions out of respect for his parents. They claim that this will be the last one. Anyway, before heading to Chandigarh, we stopped in Pritalia to pick up his cousin who will accompany him to meet the girl and her family.

At the house, Cub’s Master Ji (Mom’s elder sister) asked why he doesn’t just marry me. “She’s not too short. In fact, she’s taller than her (pointing to her daughter-in-law).” Wow.

I am watching License to Wed. It’s actually funny.

So anyway Cub is back and told me the girl was pretty but she is a city girl. The only city girl he wants is me. Ha.

Flower Girl

The Wall between the Farm Houses

After breaking fast, I crossed over the roof to Surrinder and Harpal’s house. Cub and Jaspal are still in Delhi resolving a rice paddy issue with the exporter and I couldn’t bare to watch another Indian soap. So watching soaps with Surrinder and accompanying Harpal to town for some design work, was how I spent my day.

Upon crossing the great wall, Mischief threatens to bite me. I get into a ball and Surrinder comes running out telling the dog that she is going to beat him. I really adore her.

I am offered tea and a sweet and we sit and watch Indian soaps. This time I am explained to in English what is going on. We watch three soaps (or serials, as they call them) – one is about 5 sister in laws that are causing trouble for the youngest, the second serial is set in Rajastan where the children marry at a very young age (the 9 yr old wife calls her 10 year old husband monkey and they are constantly fighting – as kids should be), and the last is about an adopted girl who is married to a man in a higher caste. All three involving marriage. `

In between commercial breaks, Surrinder tells me an interesting story about a recent wedding in her family. For her nephew’s wedding, Surrinder’s daughter, Rupali, and granddaughter came all the way from America to take part. The family was upset at Rupali for bringing her daughter along because it may cause the newly wed to have females instead of males. Eyebrows were raised whenever the small child would go near the bride. Needless to say, Indian weddings have nothing close to a flower girl. In fact, Surrinder told me that this happens a lot. Woman that have daughters are not to spend much time near the newly wed to prevent some invisible hormonal exchange.

Speaking of hormonal exchanges….now that I am not spending every moment with female travel partner, Bonnie, Aunt Flow arrived at the station right on time – about the only thing that arrives on time in India.